Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Life in Poch'un

At breakfast with the family we're living with in Poch'un. We live in a house with our bosses, Dr. Park and Mrs. Myun (husband and wife), plus their daughter, two male boarding students, and another teacher. On this morning we ate kimchi, seaweed soup, rice and fish patties covered in egg.

Every autumn Mrs Myun makes a cherry wine and stores it inside this vessel. The cherries are hand-picked from the cherry trees that grow on the mountainside. We drank some when a visitor came to the house.

Our home and the adjacent school sit atop a small mountain, reached by driving up a perilous, cracked cement road.

Stephen and his special friend JeDu which means "wise brains" in Korean. Yesterday Stephen witnessed an epic battle between JeDu and an as-yet-unidentified creature that has been referred to as everything from a "tree lemur" to a "super raccoon." It was at least as big as JeDu according to some accounts.

Adrienne and Hello Kitty laboring over her MFA application. When Adie finished, we celebrated by eating noodles at a nearby restaurant and going into Poch'un city to go bauble shopping. At the restaurant, we ordered "Kimchi water noodles" - but instead of a steaming bowl of noodles, we got a frosty bowl of ice noodles.

Stephen, Mrs. Myun, and Karam outside enjoying some snow last week. The family had to walk up the steep mountain road after their car got stuck at the bottom but everyone was in great spirits and enjoying the weather when we came out to greet them.

Us after decorating the Christmas tree. It was a festive occassion, only I hope that the indoor socket that is dangling off the tree doesn't cause an electrical fire. If the school is still standing in January, consider it a Festivus miracle!

Adrienne with Mrs. Myun, Karam, the two boarding students, the other teacher, and Ung-E, the golden retriever.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Goodbye Pusan, Hello Poch'un

LG metro city, the largest apartment complex in Korea and our home for six weeks. LG stands for Life's Good. Just like an American stadium can take the name of its corporate sponsor, a Korean apartment may be named after, say, a consumer electronics and home applicances conglomerate. We found that LG metro didn't live up to it's corporate slogan.

Bookworms love to read; bibliophiles love the materials and formats of books; bibliomaniacs love to hoard books of no intrinsic value and occasionally eat them. Our boss suffered from bibliomania, an obsessive-compulsive disorder "involving the collecting or hoarding of books to the point where social relations or health are damaged." We estimated that in his apartment were at least 20,000 books. The perimeter of every room was lined with locked bookshelves. Over the course of the six weeks that we stayed with him, he added a few more bookshelves, only there was no space for them - one went in the kitchen, between the dining room table and the kimchi freezer, another went behind a bedroom door and significantly blocked the entrance.

Our workspace. As you can see, the line of bookshelves extends onto the porch.

Unfortunately, bibliomaniacs don't actually read their books. If only our boss would have read that one.


After leaving dr jun's, we stayed in a goshitel, a kind of student boarding house infamous for its economical arrangement of space. Our room was 5ft x 7ft. In the picture you can see three walls; the room was the length of a table, and we slept partially under it. Even still, it was our cube, and we came to rather like it.


For a hilarious 3 minute tour through a goshitel: http://kr.youtube.com/watch?v=Wq1aAsjYOBg

Our goshitel was near a university, and the area was full of restaurants which specialized in carnivorous treats. Nearly every establishment had a cartoon animal on their sign to advertise which meat was most prevalent on their menu. It might be a chicken with an imperious facial expression being boiled in a black metal cauldron, or a pig with a bandaid on its arse, or, in this case, the two meats are in a death struggle, and clearly the beef shank is tastier than the craven chicken breast.

Our business relationship with Dr Jun ended at 10 pm on a train from Pusan to Seoul. Here we are, relieved.


Monastic-ware being sold at the train station.

And now we're back in poch'un, where Stephen began four months ago. The people here are kind and welcoming, and you can't put a price on our peace-of-mind. Stephen has two dogs to romp with, there are two Buddhist temples within walking distance, and there is nothing but trees and crisp air.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Coffeeshop & Bathhouse


A few weeks ago we moved residences. We were finding our 18th floor penthouse suite to be a bit inadequate, so we moved into more intimate student housing at a nearby university. This picture is of us at a throwback coffeeshop across the street from our new address.


Korean bathhouses are perhaps the best in the world outside of Japan. They have three components: the bathhouse itself, of which there are necessarily no pictures; the saunas, which are usually hot but in this instance was a chattery 40' (Adrienne posed for a quick pic and was outta there); and a public resting area where people have picnics, naps, watch TV and even spend the night. All this for $5.

Light pink for girls; dark, brawny red for boys.

The pillow is wooden, the stones are salt, the room is a balmy 140' (nothing compared to the red-hot 192' max that boils an egg).

This picture demonstrates that the saunas are a great place to a) die and b) flirt.

In the center of the resting room is an petrified tree to give a more natural ambience.

A woman reclining in the shadow of a plastinated tree.

Mechanical foot massager: $1 for 10 minutes. Made in Japan.

My favorite is #33.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Aquarium, Snacks and Neighborhood Sights

Us at the aquarium.


Stephen with a really gigantic crab. Their poses are somehow similar.


A shock-o-meter near the electric eel tank. The idea is that you touch sensors on a plastic eel and it shows you what kind of animal would be killed by that voltage. We found the pictures of animals in pain to be particularly graphic. We've mentioned the Korean love of cartoons before - this is the dark side.

Adrienne's favorite part was the eels. She had fun taking picture after picture of all of the different varieties as they poked out of rocks and zoomed around tanks.


Jellyfish.


Korean food stand and restaurant near the aquarium. Outside they sell ambiguous tempura creations, some kind of flat fish cake on skewers, plus a saucy-spicy concoction. The sit-down restaurant menu is in picture form around the stand - helpful for those who can't read Korean.


Adrienne posing with a Chrisitian missionary who was handing out mini vitamin drinks along with Jesus pamphlets. Kids started running towards her as soon as they saw her on the street. She must be on to something.


Stephen with samka kimbap, one of our favorite snacks. Samka means triangle and kimbap is a generic term for Korean sushi, which is different from Japanese because it usually includes veggies and meat as opposed to raw fish. We go for the veggie samka kimbap which is basically white rice mixed with kimchi and wrapped in seaweed. Most difficult thing ever to unwrap without ruining it.


Clouds seen from our bedroom window at Dr. Jun's.


Mosaic dragon near Dr. Jun's.


Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Grapes, Election, and Dong Myeon-sa

Stephen thinks this picture is very hilarious. The grapes in Korea are different than in America; they are sweeter and juicier, and have 2-3 seeds in each grape, depending on its size. Adrienne thinks this picture is ridiculous.
With our boss, the day after the election. He was very confused about the purpose of this picture, and even more so that we wanted him to be in it.

One of the rooms at Dong Myeon-sa, a temple near our home. ("Sa" means temple.) In Korea, temples have rows of paper lotus lanterns hanging from the ceiling, which you can see on the left side of this picture.

Kimchi fermantation vessels. Since ancient times in Korea, these huge ceramic pots have been used for making kimchi. People often keep these vessels on the patios or balconies of their homes.


Outside of the main temple at Dong Myeon-sa.


Evil spirits underneath the feet of one of the four heavenly kings.

Adrienne posing with one of the four heavenly kings. These kings are always present at the entrance gate to a Korean Buddhist temple. They are also known as guardians of the four directions.

These guys are pretty scary.



Steve made another friend! We call this little guy Shivers because he always looks so cold when we pass by him on our way to the walking path near our apartment.

We came across a ritual while walking one morning. The woman in white silk was throwing rice and other ritual objects into the ocean. Behind her was an arrangement of ceremonial foods, including an entire pig's head.


Throwing rice into the ocean.

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Oryukdo and Haemul Pajeon

Today our boss took us to Oryukdo, a group of islets just a short drive from where we live. The name Oryukdo means "five or six islands." It is called this because at high tide a land bridge connecting two of the islands is submerged. So at low tide there are five islands and at high tide there are six. These islands are actually very tiny, and only one is supposedly inhabited.


Sun setting near Oryukdo today.

View of one of the Oryukdo islets - this is the supposedly inhabited one. There is a white lighthouse on this islet and you can see it in the background on the right side if you look closely.


This woman was casting out a basket to harvest various shellfish from the ocean. Right after we took this picture, she heaved the basket out to sea with a cheerful and dramatic yelp.


One of the fisherwomen displaying her goods for sale near Oryukdo. She had all kinds of shellfish we had never seen before, and nobody knew the names in English. Our boss said he doesn't like eating them, but he offered to buy some for us and eat them with us if we wanted. We declined, but this was a very typically Korean gesture.

Close-up of the fisherwoman's catch.

"Adrienne, Dr. Jun - Look up at the camera! Smile! Dr. Jun? Dr. Jun? Oh well, I'll just go ahead and take the picture."

Our dinner tonight - haemul pajeon, Korean seafood and scallion pancake. This was gigantic, the picture doesn't do it justice. Various types of seafood - octopus, squid, crab, shrimp - plus mushrooms, peppers and maybe a shoebox full of scallions, all fried in a battery mixture of some sort. Delicious, though certainly not healthy.